aug 27

Im in La Paz, Bolivia. It is a lot warmer here than I thought it would be. It took me two days travel with an overnight in Puno. La Paz is more like an american city then any Ive seen in Peru. If new york were very poor, it would be La Paz. Getting here, the bus had to go on a barge made of wood powered by a little outboard motor across a small section of the lake. I am learning money. At first things sound really expensive, but because of the eschange rates it should be cheaper. I came here because its cheaper. I am running on gas fumes in my wallet. I saw a bolivian sailor! You know the joke about the bolivian sailor... if their boat sinks.... they can walk to shore (bad joke). The entire time on the bus to La Paz, I was asking people if I could borrow their guide book for Bolivia. I don´t have a clue as to what to do here. I know biking down the worlds most dangerous road is popular. But, I hear its actually pretty safe to bike down with a guide, so maybe Ill get on a local bus thats where the real danger is! This is an interactive vacation so heres my question to you. There is a prison which the prisoners run local tours. It was in the guide book so it might be safe. should I go? You have one day to vote I check my email tomorrow night. Also, I got some dental work done in Lima. My filling hasn´t bothered me with the altitude, so I think she did a pretty good job.

aug 23

Happy birthday Dad. The jungle turned out to be a really bummer. Their idea of conservation is a few square yards around their popular tourist attractions- the cave, and the falls. If you continue on the trail beyond those points, it turns into slash and burn farm land. I definitely choose a poor location for the jungle experience. You always hear about rain forest being destroyed, but actually seeing happen is worse. There are many causes to the problem, but the one that runs circles in my mind is overpopulation. I had seen some of the most amazing butterflies the world has to offer. Sometimes, every few steps I took, another colorful butterfly would pass my line of sight. Tingo Maria is the place for the butterfly. I make less entries about August then any other month because I am desensitized to the life here. I need a new country or, maybe, Ill come home soon. I would hate to leave. I would rather be big shot here then another working stiff back home, but nothing last forever.

Aug 20

Today, Im in Tingo Maria (named after you Maria). I arrived yesterday after two days travel that was mostly on dirt roads. Its a scary feeling to drive down mountains on dirt roads with no guard rails. I road the Santa Peregrine bus, close spelling to my middle name. Im in the jungle and its hot. I thought it was suppose to be the middle of winter. Ive already been to the botanical gardens here. I saw monkeys, already. Ive been kind of wasting time. The tourist office here sucks. First, they don't speak English. Second, they couldn't really tell me were to find a guide. Third, when they found the guide; Thats when they were learning about how the jungle guides work. I don't think I need a guide except to keep me away from the cocaine farms. By the way, anyone up for a coke party?

Aug 15

I had fun in the mountains. As much fun as you can have freezing your ass off. I had paid for climbing 2 mountains, but I soon realized after the second day I would be lucky to climb one. The mountains are bright, and the plant life looks like plastic toys that belong in your fish bowl. I remember seeing Dandelions they grow everywhere. My guides name was Paulino. I was a little worried at first because he was so short and thin- maybe at best 100 pounds. He showed me he could carry about 2/3rds his body weight up the mountain at a quicker Pace then I could keep up with. He was strong- really, really strong. When you climb the mountain; its a really personal experience. The only sounds are your foot steps, the wind, and your guide asking you if your OK. I was a little hypoxic (not enough oxygen) when I had some silly thoughts. For example, I remember thinking how cool/ important it would be to have clean and shiny shoes as I walked up to base camp. Base camp had been higher then any mountain in the continental US. I remember sleeping a lot. Paulino cooked all my meals. He took care of me like a parent. I was dependent on him for my food, shelter, and decision making. In exchange, I told really bad Spanish jokes. Remember, my Spanish vocabulary is that of an infant. He laughed. It seems like a survival mechanism. I mean I needed him to like me, or; otherwise I would die on that mountain. The mountain is dry and cold. We did a lot of walking at two a.m. On the last day, we reached the glacier at five am. We needed to be up early because thats when the ice is strongest. Paulino couldn't get my cramp-ons on my boots. So, I never made it to the top. Instead, we walked the next 7 or 8 hours to the bottom of the mountain. It turns out there wasn't anything wrong with my cramp-ons; they were just a different style then Paulino was used to. The company gave me a free trip to glacier you can drive to. Unless Paulino carried me on his back, I don't think I was strong enough to make it up that mountain anyway. Now, I know a little about what mountaineering is all about. And, its tough and dangerous. You basically put your body in a state of compensatory shock and then go exercising. If you break your leg or lose a pint of blood, you have to get down quickly before you go into de-compensatory shock (where your heart beats very slowly, and your lungs breath less then usual to save energy). After de-compensatory shock is death. It would probably be a very painless death, like going to sleep. But, I made it down in one piece, and thats whats important.

Aug 10

Where am I? Im in Haurez. It is actually pretty warm considering how high the altitude is. I expected it to be cold like Cusco or Arequipa. I like it here the people are friendly. The altitude hasn't given me too much trouble and things are good. Today, I climbed to lake Churup; it's 13,000 feet up and thats high. I could feel my heart ponding as it tried to keep up with my body's demand for oxygenated blood. I am trying to trick my body into producing more red blood cells because thats what I need to climb a mountain. The hardest part of the climb was when we were 5 minutes away. At this time, we were climbing the steeper portion of the trail next to the waterfall, also; thats were there was less air. When we got to the lake, we rested for an hour. It is quite difficult, but necessary, to rest when your body is telling you something is wrong. I had a resting (not moving) heart rate of 132/min, that would be a typical heart rate at sea level during an intense workout. I haven´t decided which mountain to climb but itll be an easy one. I plan to buy most gifts for back home in Haurez because its a great place. before leaving Lima, I sold my fancy shoes for ten dollars, and dropped my boggie board off at Victors house. I dont need boogie equipment in the mountain or jungle.

Hi

 

Aug 7

Back in Lima, I realized that city has more to it then I could possibly know, but don´t all cities... even our own. I came back for Kathy´s quince. First day, I bought the gifts. I hope she liked them, they had Peruana theme because she has a lot of patriotic pride. I rent a suit that looked great on me, got my shoes shined, and was off. The party was at the ¨casino de polica.¨ I think thats were the police regulate the gambling industry; it wasn´t a police owned casino. Kathy wore a beautiful white, fluffy, wedding type dress. She was introduced by an announcer and accompanied by her father. Next, the quince helpers (similar brides maids and grooms men) were introduced. Finally, The godparents and Kathy´s mother. It started with speechs from the family. Moeses, who´s Kathy´s brother, was caught up in the whole ceremony and began to cry. Next, the jewelry was presented by the godparents and Kathy´s father. The Quince is the jewery birthday as Kathy had explained it. The first dance was with the father surronded by the 4 pairs of quince helpers. It was very formal with set times for switching partners and very much rehersed. Finally, everone got to dance. It was a great party. Kathy looked absolutely stunning. The 15 birthday party is when a girl becomes a women. We all know it takes a little longer. But, in a way 15 was at one time in Human evolution middle-aged. Perhaps, it is accurate to say she is a 'kid/adult.' This is a new word I made up to fit the ocassion.

Aug 5

I am in Lima getting ready for Kathy's quince birthday. It was a long 22 hour bus ride from Ecuador. I like the Ecuadorians, to me, they're the banana people. They grow loads of them and prepare them in interesting ways. For example, I ate a grilled banana that was cut down the center and stuffed with a sour tasting cheese. It was actually quite good. I call it a grilled banana sandwich. I wasn't there very long, but I could tell it was a world apart from Peru. People are very rude on the street. No one says sorry when they accidentally bump into you on the street. They're a lot like the Paris people, uh robin. Ok ay, so I lied a little when I said I liked Ecuadorians. But, I didn't stay long enough for them to really piss me off. The scenery was beautiful in Ecuador. It is kind of amazing to travel by bus for two hours and go from a dessert coast, to a wooded coast, to jungle coast. I read an article today about Peru's government being corrupt. The president has a 13 percent approval rating, and thats on a good day. I knew the government was bad before reading the article, but it hinted towards revolt of the people. I would hate to be caught up in a revolution. After Lima, I am either heading towards the mountain or the jungle. I haven't decided yet, but I am leaning toward the mountain. I should mention something about Tumbes, Peru. It had a different style. The downtown wasn't the usual European architecture. Also, The Plaza de Armies had this really beautiful mosaic. The mosaic was 3D, fifty feet tall and depicted the surrounding landscape as well as a battle seen between Inca and Conquistador. Have you ever heard of a 3D mosaic? Also, It wasn't too safe of a place. There were untrained security guards at every corner of the market carrying shotguns. I mean these guns were not holstered. They were free to swing around and point at people. I asked if the gun was real. The guard pointed the barrel at his chest, shock his head yes and dragged his finger across his neck to indicate that it was real. I was convinced! The lesson is don't stay in Tumbes long or you'll get accidentally shot. I did buy myself a really cool football jersey here, though

aug 3

Hey everyone, I am in Ecuador for the night, another stamp on my passport. I am in Machala and I think I am leaving tomorrow for Kathy's birthday party. However, I am having more bank problems. This time the ATM ate my card, hopefully I can get it back tomorrow. It is nice that they use US dollars, but not nice that they stole my card. it gets really hot in Ecuador, and the landscape is diverse. It is a contrast to the dry Peruvian coastal dessert. It takes more exploration than I have time for. Maybe some day, I'll return. Also, the people are different somehow. I can't quite explain it. Thats all for now.

Aug 1

Im in Chiclayo, now. I just spent the last 2 nights in the Salas, the capitial for shaman. It was so incredible hot in Salas. Some of the local kids took me out hunting. They ranged in age from 18 to 7, so I was a little nervous that they had a gun. It was a really old fashioned rifle were you load the gun powder and pellets seperately, and you have only one shot before you reload. We didnt shot anything and nobody got hurt. I saw the Shaman in the night. I was lucky to have meet a Lima kid who spoke english because he translated for me. The Shaman, named Crosvi, took us 7 to the farm around 8 or 9 at night. We rested before the ceremony began. Crosvi would ask and say your name and tap some rocks to begin. There was a lot of cleaning during the night. Using special sticks and rocks, the shamans helpers cleaned away the bad spirts. This cleansing was repeated dozens of times through the night. There was some chanting and whistling. Lets not forget, there was a lot of drinking through the nose. I didnt drink by nose, though. The only thing I drank was a lemon drink at the end. THe shaman told me I would dream of silly things. The ceremony was over around 4 or 5 in the morning. We rested at the end, also, and the shaman and others joked for a minute. it was a really cool experence. Now Im off to Tumbes and Ecudor in the north.